Acids are one of the most popular tools in skincare, but they work best when they are matched to the problem and introduced gradually. Too-frequent exfoliation can weaken the skin barrier, intensify stinging and increase sensitivity to the sun.
AHA, BHA and PHA: a short glossary
- AHAs, for example glycolic, lactic or mandelic acid, act mainly on the surface of the epidermis and support smoothing and brightening.
- BHA, most often salicylic acid, is fat-soluble, which is why it is sometimes chosen for oily, blemish-prone skin.
- PHAs, for example gluconolactone, are usually gentler and often better tolerated by sensitive skin.
How to start without overloading the skin
To begin with, choose one product and use it in the evening 1-2 times a week. Do not add retinol, a strong vitamin C or another peel at the same time. If strong stinging, redness, peeling or a “papery” feel appears, take a break and go back to rebuilding the barrier.
SPF is mandatory
With acids, sun protection is not an add-on. Skin after exfoliation can be more sensitive to UV radiation, which is why daily SPF 30 or higher is the minimum, especially when treating discolouration.
When it is better to choose the salon
If you want to work on discolouration, uneven texture, acne or a loss of radiance, a salon plan may be safer than testing strong products at home. At Studio AP we choose, among others, the PRX-T33 medical peel and other procedures after assessing the skin and contraindications.
When not to experiment
With active inflammation, recent treatments, dermatological therapy, pregnancy, breastfeeding, strong hypersensitivity or medications that increase skin reactivity, consult your care before introducing acids.
Signs that acids are being used too often
If the skin starts to react with stinging, excessive peeling, tingling after a cream or a greater tendency to redness, the frequency of exfoliation is probably too high. In such a situation we do not increase the concentration, but take a break and rebuild the barrier.
Well-chosen acids can beautifully refresh the complexion. Badly chosen ones can cause months of barrier rebuilding. It is worth starting carefully.
